Showing posts with label Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010. Show all posts

Friday, July 9, 2010

Paris Haute Couture "Unique" Gowns: What you Might Not See at the Emmy's Red Carpet!

Haute Couture Creative "What Is That?":
Haute Couture is all about one-of-a-kind creations meant for a rarefied few--either Top actresses who can borrow them for free to wear for Red Carpet events (to get the Designer some publicity) or the 400 or so (yep, that's all!) women from all over the world who can afford to fork up $30,000 for a pantsuit or $100,000+ for a gown. As in any type of fashion, there is a wide spectrum of designs ranging form the sublime and elegant to the "Are You Kidding Me?". Understandingly, a lot of Haute Couture is about designers having "no limits"; going "crazy" as it were and having no limits. With that being said, here are my "Nick Top Picks" for "I am not so sure about that...":
Eric Tibusch, a Parisian--by way of French Polynesia--designer who worked with Jean Paul Gaultier, showed a collection for Fall/Winter 2010 that had Reptilian suggestions. Check out those rhinoceros headdresses. Even if you remove those, the ensembles still do not get any better, unfortunately. The light aqua embroidered lace cocktail dress above would certainly prevent you from eating that Caesar Salad you desire at that fabulous cocktail party. I guess it's one way of staying thin.
Jean Paul Gaultier showed a fanciful collection--mostly good--but there were some missteps, that I doubt would make it to the Hollywood Red Carpet--or a party in Abu Dhabi for that matter, as seen by the photos above and below...
The dead fox is KILLING ME! And maybe not in a good way. The Drag Queens in my 'hood would love this, but well, that's about the extent of it.
John Galliano for Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010 did his part as well. I actually LOVE this voluminous violet coat-dress but again, not so sure if this would ever make it on Heidi Klum, Angelina Jolie, or even Dior perfume spokesperson Charlize Theron. The ensemble does give you DRAMA. Points for that.Not sure about this Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010 deep red silk velvet cowl draped gown as well. For the red carpet, you might see that cowl completely removed, then it might not end up in the "What Was She Thinking" section.
Finally, Chanel Fall/Winter 2010 Haute Couture by Karl Lagerfeld. The collection--for the most part--was amazing. But...then he showed this mess of a dress above. Bai Ling would be proud.

We'll see what makes it to the red carpet, and what does not!

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier

Couture Spine, Dita Von Teese and Mink Breasts?Givenchy Haute Couture:
Designer Riccardo Tisci decided to present his Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010 Collection--only 10 looks--in a more "intimate" stage, as opposed to a grand runway show. Therefore editors could look at the incredible workmanship and Tisci's dark eye for detail more closely. Zippers had bone pulls, jackets were carved out from leather as well as double silk duchesse satins to suggest a spine, or a skeletal structure.Black patchwork leather coat and Ombre feathered gown, Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 2010

Gowns were fitted and flared below the knee and over-embroidered with laces, leather and falling into cascades of feathers. Colors went from Winter White to Ombre metallics and grays as well as black. It was as if glorious birds had been in a storm and stripped of almost their entire feathered coverings only to reveal a stunning inner Couture structure with their feathered tails still intact.
Front View: Back View:
"Skeleton"-like embroidered lace and feather gown, Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 2010

Models will love these gowns for Met Opening events and the like. But I suppose those actual Couture-purchasing ladies in Russia, the Middle East and China will want to have the Atelier pack on a few more of the embroideries, well, to make it more "appropriate" for those private evening soirees in St. Petersburg, Riyadh or Beijing. Tisci, himself stated that 70% of the pieces that are ordered are altered to the customers specifications.

Click Below for a Video of Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 2010 Presentation:



Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture:
Liza Would DIE: Gold lurex and silk batwing ensemble, cigarette holder and turban extra; Gaultier Haute Couture F/W 2010

Paris' enfant terrible, Jean Paul Gaultier, capped off Paris F/W 2010 Haute Couture Fashion Week with a show that was all at once elegant, directional, kitchy, Parisian, had slight nods to the 40's and the 80's and "Old Hollywood Glamour" (there it is again!) of course. Almost every look was capped with an exaggerated twist-knot turban that would make both Norma Desmond AND Lady Gaga SCREAM! The Collection was full of Le Batwing; infusing it from everything from trench coats (a Gaultier "signature") jumpsuit gowns and even his finale wedding gown, a Batwing Trench coat, of course (see above photo). Gaultier even showed his signature cone bras in mink with one wool ensemble. Try walking into the Plaza Athenee in this get-up next time you are in Paris kids. One of my favorites was this gunmetal ostrich-feathered and sequined cocktail number that had Josephine Baker written ALL OVER it!
The Close-Up detail is just incredible! Now, this is what you show up to the Grammys wearing!
The show ended with special guest model, the one and only Dita Von Teese, who sashayed in a Couture Negligee as only she would, showing the new line of Jean Paul Gaultier lingerie for La Perla. Vive le Kitsch, Vive La France and Vive L'enfant Terrible Gaultier.

Below for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture F/W 2010 Edited Runway show:



Click Below for a Behind-The-Scenes of Gaultier Haute Couture Fittings:

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Elie Saab and Valentino

Cowl Heaven...and Classique Couture Shapes...
Cowl Wrapped: Elie Saab Haute Couture F/W 2010/11

Lebanese-born, Red Carpet-favorite Elie Saab showed his Fall/Winter 2010/11 Haute Couture Collection. It was very HEAVY, both in its fabrications as well as dramatic draping. But to me, Heavy in a good way. There's no mistake: It's Fall kids.Deep red velvets, muted silver organza, dark camel silk crepes, degrade chiffon and lots of hand-beading rounded out the color and fabrications he offered this season to the "Ladies Who Live and Lunch In Kuwait" who love their Elie Saab Haute Couture. Shapes ranged from exaggerated pleated structures, cowl drapes galore, one-shoulder Grecian Goddess gowns and a play on asymmetry.Fashion writer Tim Blanks of Style.com was not amused by the collection. But, I have to say: I kind of liked it! Yes, some of those gowns looked as if the models were drowning in them (as Tim Gunn would say: That's A LOT of Gown!) but...I'm a big fan of cowl draping, the "Grecian Goddess" motif, and lots of drama (what part of Nick Verreos did you not understand!). And of course, if you have a couple $100,000 to spare and are getting married and thinking against the "traditional" white satin gown...Well, this gray-silver ball gown above might be what you might want to be ordering. Besides, Queen Rania of Jordan, the Multi-Millionaire Brides-to-be LOVE themselves some Elie Saab, as we know.

Click Below for Elie Saab F/W 2010/11 Haute Couture Runway Show Edited:


Valentino Haute Couture:
For Fall/Winter Haute Couture 2010/11, Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli (above) decided to go "Vintage Couture". It was very 60's in a way, with 21st Century design nuances. Think Jackie O.-meets-Jessica Alba (who was in the front row). It was as if one was going through a "Valentino Archive Book" from the 60s--which, in a way is what the designers are most likely doing. The runway show began very "cagey" (see above) and then went 60's Valentino Couture.This black mini cocktail dress above with "exploding" organza rose is SO Valentino , SO Couture and yet, still SO modern. Also, it is very editorial and you just know Vogue Italia and Steven Meisel will EAT IT UP! The defining shape of the collection was definitely the trapeze off-the-body/Baby Doll shape and... The timeless "drop-waist". The Valentino Haute Couture F/W 2010/11 Collection showed LOTS of these latter styles, with ruffled bottoms that were cut right at the 16" below-the-natural-waist mark, which looked both "vintage" yet new (even if they seemed two sizes too big).
In case you are shopping for that Little Black Dress, look no further than Valentino Haute Couture. This one above was one of my favorites. Imagine being at a party in Capri in this fur-trimmed little number?Of course, being the House of Valentino, the designers had to end with a "Valentino Red" showstopper, and this red silk Gazar gown just about did it for me. If I was one of those ladies in the front row (or ordering from my beachfront home in the Seychelles), I would definitely order this one! Also, note to my friend Miss Heidi Klum: This would look GORGEOUS at any upcoming red carpet awards show! I'll have to call her and let her know...after I show her MY collection :)

Click below for a video of the Finale of the Valentino Haute Couture F/W 2010 Runway:

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Chanel and Armani Prive

The Lion King...and (wait for it!) Old Hollywood is BACK!
Roar: The Giant Lion at Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010/11 Runway show

Karl Lagerfeld and Co. just showed the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010/11 Collection in Paris and from the looks of it, it was business as usual--in terms of it being a Fashion Spectacle. What a quilted leather bag and perfume can buy you kiddies! In this case: A HUGE fashion show! And A TON of Young Hollywood. Front Row: Vanity Fair Fashion and Style Director Michael Roberts , NY Times' Cathy Horyn, Allure Editor-in-Chief Linda Wells (great pumps!), Suzy Menkes and actress Leighton Meester

Instead of HUGE quilted Chanel No. 5 Bottles (like last Haute Couture F/W Fashion Week), Lagerfeld filled up the Grand Palais stage with an immense lion. No, not because he was inspired by Disney's "Beauty and The Beast" or "The Lion King", but it represented the Leo in Coco Chanel. The show even ended with a Lion-headed male model escorting his stunning Chanel Couture-clad beauty (above). In terms of fashion, it was all VERY Fall: Maroon, deep reds, camel, heavy tweeds, wools and fur. Real fur darling, it's COUTURE.
A lot of his looks played with varying proportions: Cropped 3/4 sleeved tweed jackets with blouson-long sleeved blouses and below-the-knee gored skirts. Very Couture Dowdy. Not sure how front-row attendee Leighton Meester would look wearing this above ensemble, but if she wants, she would totally end up on the FugGirls site in a hot minute!For evening, Lagerfeld showed No Gowns (gasp!), but instead, elegant lady-like full-skirted calf-length ensembles like this fire-red satin one above, as well as...Heavily beaded shift chemises with matching cropped jackets. Love those Couture Booties! The House of Chanel isn't necessarily known for the gowns. Look elsewhere for that all you multi-millionaire Debutantes.

Click Below for Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2010 Runway Edit Video:


Armani Prive:Copper Pleating: Armani Prive F/W 2010/11

Giorgio Armani has always been the go-to Designer for Hollywood. It's been a love affair since his "American Gigolo" days in the early 1980s if not before. In fact, it has been argued that he was the first "non-Hollywood" fashion designer to infiltrate the Awards Show Red Carpet. For this Haute Couture season , he payed homage to his love of "Old Hollywood" and he had PLENTY of gowns for those Couture clients missing something after leaving the no-Gown Chanel runway show. Kass Sequins: Supermodel Carmen Kass, Armani Prive Haute Couture F/W 2010/11

It was all about Lauren Bacall-meets-Carole Lombard with a little bit of Sharon Tate-esque hair thrown in. The colors reflected the intended season: Lots of camel, bronze and Winter Whites. Thick tweeds, duchesse satins and LOTS of crystals...As in sequined "Siren" gowns worthy of any "Jessica Rabbit" in the room...or a future Academy Award-nominated actress. I have a feeling we'll be seeing some of these gowns come next February. His gowns and suitings had interesting pleating detail as well as a continued interest in the shoulder as seen above and below:
Razor Sharp: The Armani Prive Shoulder

So, if you don't have an Academy Awards to attend and actually can pay for an original Armani Prive Haute Couture ensemble, you might want to go for this day-suit above. NO ONE, and I really mean NO ONE, will EVER question your authority in this. They better not. It's worth the price of a BMW!

Click Below For Armani Prive F/W 2010 Edit Runway Video:

Monday, July 5, 2010

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Georges Hobeika

Sheikha Central
Draped Princess: Red draped gown with embroidered neckline, Georges Hobeika F/W Haute Couture 2010

Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika offered his view of Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010 in Paris and let's just say: It's VERY VERY Haute! Recession? What recession? This is Haute Couture kids! $30,000 for a suit and about $80,000 for a gown. Yep, this isn't Forever 21 or H & M. Fabrics alone can cost up to $500+ a yard. Warrior Wedding: White gown with beaded shoulder/neckline detail, Georges Hobeika F/W Haute Couture 2010

A dress can take up 5-10 yards so that's about $5,000 for fabric alone. Add trim, labor cost, designer's fee, and the cost of getting a HAND-MADE gown all to yourself with a number to prove it....well, now hopefully you understand. The price of your First Class flight to Paris for fittings IS NOT included.Cowling It: Cowl-draped slate-gray silk gown with beaded accents, Georges Hobeika F/W Haute Couture 2010

For Fall/Winter 2010, Hobeika showed glorious draping, color and exuberant beading. Collars stood up, shoulders were very extended and it was "there is no limit on my fabric budget this season" feeling with the gorgeous textiles shown.Lots of side-cowl Goddess draping, beaded shoulder interest and a Lieutenant Uhura from Star Trek-meets-Grecian Goddess Athena underlying theme.
The red satin jacket-and-skirt ensemble above SCREAMS Ivana Trump...or some Ukrainian arm-candy beauty! Now, tell me there are not ever some Wardrobe Malfunctions on the Haute Couture Runways...Case in Point: See above gown. See something odd? Look closely (to the left). Yep, the side zipper just came undone. I absolutely LOVE this gown so I'll just chalk it up to those oh-so-temperamental invisible zippers (especially ones put on by hand!). It has happened to ALL of us darling.
On a better note: Take a look at this stunner of a violet cocktail dress above! Imagine grabbing your next Heir to the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg in this...Or a Sheikh from Qatar. Georges Hobeika knows his market and his girls. Loved this collection Georges!