Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011: Christian Dior

A Tribute to René Gruau...

Grace Kelly 2011: Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Fashion Week began yesterday in Paris, following the Menswear Shows--and so the "Oscars Gowns Race" begins...First up Christian Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano.

Theme: It was a Tribute to renowned illustrator... René Gruau (above) who worked for numerous magazines including Elle, L'Officiel, Vogue, and Marie Claire, among others, as well as doing several of the Dior ad campaigns.

He gave life to the stunning Haute Couture creations in the magazines showing the exaggerated shapes and ultra elegant emotions only Haute Couture can emote. As a result, Gruau popularized and expanded its worldwide appeal.

Oscar Gown, No Alterations Needed: On a non-5'11" actress, this will hit the FLOOR, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Trends: For Spring 2011, Galliano played on the "Ultimate Dior Muse": Wasp-waisted, 50's silhouettes; High-low (shorter in front, longer in back) dresses; Grace Kelly in Monaco-meets-Princess Soraya of Iran; Vermillion reds, rose pinks, nudes, ivory, bronzed copper, ombre iridescent shadings; Gowns, Gowns and More Gowns (it's COUTURE darlings!).

Office Couture: Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Tim Blanks, of Style.com said this: It was remarkable that such extravagance managed to capture the speed, the spontaneity, the airiness, even the economy of the illustrator's work. Opulently swagged tops and gowns bobbed and floated like billowing sails. One utterly gorgeous thing hid roses in clouds of white marabou. Dior's New Look was an obvious source point for skirts that flared from corseted waists or dropped pencil-thin to below the knee from rounded hips.

Here I offer some of my favorites which you might see at the Academy Awards Red Carpet...

High-Low Ball: Rose pink strapless ball gown, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Pink Swan Natalie Portman Couture: Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Tilda Swinden: Strapless Gown, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Vintage Dior: Another "Oscar Candidate", The "twisted drape" strapless gown above from Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011 reminds me A LOT of...

This iconic Compiègne ball gown from Dior's 1954 Collection. Sublime...and worth repeating. Kudos Galliano and House of Dior Haute Couture Atelier!

Click Below for Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Milan Fashion Week Spring 2011: Prada, Gucci and Versace--Photos and Runway Video!!

More Fashion Week Highlights: Turquoise, Orange, Coral, YVES SAINT LAURENT references, 70's strappy heels, and Monkey Prints?

Prada Spring 2011:

Designer Miuccia Prada sent out a bold statement of color for Spring 2011. The runway was awash with primary colored dresses that ranged from bright orange to potent purples to greens and royal blues. Silhouettes went from shapeless shifts perfect for that older Italian Gallery Owner working in the Summer humid heat of Florence to strapless, fitted "Mermaid" shapes featuring gathered panels. And there were prints: Baroque monkey prints to be exact. How much do you want to bet Forever 21 will try to knock those off?

Going Baroque: Strapless "Mermaid" shaped printed dress

Stopping Traffic: Bright Pumpkin Orange kimono drop-sleeved sheath v-neck dress

New Wedge: This is what the House of Prada will make their money on next Spring/Summer 2011

Prada Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Gucci Spring 2011:
Yves Saint Laurent is having a moment...yep, first Marc Jacobs, then Jason Wu, now Frida Giannini, Creative Director for Gucci is doing YSL. And why not be inspired by The Master. Did they all go to his Petit Palais YSL Retrospective? I did, and trust me kids, I was inspired too! So much so I CRIED! Gucci Spring 2011 is all 70's Helmut Newton, Marrakesh, gold python belts, sleek skinny pants, peek-a-boo draped tops, bright colors and lots of satin. Slicked hair and strong red lipstick brought home the "The 80s are DEAD, long Live 1978!" look of the entire collection.

Solid Gold: Aquamarine satin jacket, blouse, gold belt and deep lilac skinny trousers

Bellissima: Model Chanel Iman on the Gucci runway, in a satin coral/copper-colored draped skirt, white peek-a-boo top and gold python belt

Evening Safari: All black ensemble consisting of short-sleeved belted jacket, skinny pants and strappy heels

Speaking of Heels: Black strapped-in heels, Gucci Spring 2011

Ladies, Get Your Pedicures: Love these strappy turquoise suede shoes with gold heel, very 1979.

Gucci Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Versace Spring 2011:
Severe Color, severe shapes and severe hair. This is "FIERCE" a la Donatella. Dropped hemlines, slits, geometric necklines and again, lots of COLOR: Turquoise, shades of coral, orange and yes, there was some black. Take note Russian Billionaire Arm Candy Ladies: This is what you'll look like come next Spring 2011.

Turquoise Princess: Knee-length sheath dress with geometric laser-cut neckline

The Midriff Is Back: Coral-colored cropped jacket and knee-length skirt

Little Black Two-some: Black cropped top with beaded straps and knee-length skirt

Shimmy Shimmy: Turquoise fringed gown with scooped neckline and peek-a-boo sides

Versace Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Christian Dior

Couture FlowersToday at 2:30 PM Paris time, the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010 show at the Musee Rodin in Paris took place. Recently metaled as a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor... Designer John Galliano, showed a stunning collection--loved by critics Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes alike--inspired by Dior's 1953 Spring/Summer "Tulip" Collection, famous for its 3-D effect embroidery, exquisite bright colors, and of course, those iconic full ball gowns."May" silk organza with green-and-purple silk-floss embroidery evening gown, Dior 1953 Spring/Summer

The Fall/Winter 2010 Haute Couture Collection was an explosion of vivid colors, blooming voluminous shapes, grand ball gowns, hand-painted watercolor prints, ruffles, tulle and stiff duchesse satins galore! Take a look:Water every other day: One shoulder ballgown with full black netting skirt and iridescent silk petal drapes, Dior F/W Haute Couture 2010
J'ai Froid: Cobalt-blue cocoon coat with "torn-ruffle" neckline, Dior F/W Haute Couture 2010
Making an Entrance: Cerulean-blue, pink and ivory colored ball gown, Dior F/W Haute Couture 2010

If this is Fall, then bring on the snow kiddies! Maybe Fall in Dubai and Bahrain possibly, where a lot of his exclusive Couture clients probably come from. The details were also extravagant, my favorite being the bulb-shaped upturned hairdos wrapped in neon-colored cellophane. The effect was incredible, as seen from these photos; the head was wrapped like the stems of a bouquet with the dress serving as the incredibly colorful floral arrangement! Suitings were decisively more Fall-like in their fabrications... Such as the angora tailleur above and below. They enveloped the models like comfy cardigan sweaters but were fitted and interfaced to a 1/4" of their size 2 figures.To be honest, I liked the suitings and cocktail dresses more than those almost-too exaggerated ball gowns (I know, what part of Galliano don't you understand!). They were grand for sure, but lost in them was the elegant draped delicacy that Christian Dior's original ball gowns had.

The New Heel: Lower and less chunky ladies. Put those platform pumps in the closet and time to get closer to the Rue de Rivoli pavement!
Out: Thicker bolder heels that have become the most coveted styles in the past few seasons have now been replaced by....
In: Strappy , more feminine, less chunky heels

Click Below for a Behind-The-Scenes, audience member video of the Runway Show (the fashion show begins at 2:50):


**UPDATE: Full Runway Show Below!**

Milan & Paris Menswear Spring/Summer 2011 Collections: Westwood, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Gucci

Euro Dandy or Euro Heir?Summer Drizzle: Moncler Gamme Bleu S/S 2011 Trenchcoat

The Menswear Spring/Summer 2011 Collections continue and here are some of my faves. First up, the Moncler Gamme Bleu Collection, designed by American Thom everything-is-shrunken Browne. Browne is known for his great presentations and somehow he had to "top himself" from last year's Swimming Extravaganza. He did. The runway show occurred in Milan's Vellodromo Vigorelli Football (soccer for the Gringos) Stadium and it was all about chic Activewear for that Tour de France fashionista in every man. Great windbreakers, trench coats, shrunken double-breasted cardigan/jackets (I can't wait until Topman knocks those off!) and LEGGINGS--bicycle-print ones, which I guarantee will be the "must purchase" for every stylin' gay this side of the Marais!
Going To A Picnic: Vivienne Westwood Menswear S/S 2011

Moving onto Vivienne Westwood. Her Menswear show was FAAAABUUUULOUS! I could just see those bloggers and oh-we-don't-get-it people saying "I would NEVER wear that!", "Is she crazy?", "what IS thaaaaat???". Ummm, how shall I say this politely: That's not the point and by the way IT'S NOT FOR YOU!! (for those people who say the "I would never wear that" comment. It's all about creative inspiration and creating a presentation--a show (think John Galliano). BIZZZNESS Class: Vivienne Westwood Men Spring 2011

Smart editors, store buyers and fashion-savvy writers will see beyond the wig and 1979 Male Hooker scarf (love!) and see a great plaid jacket, a rather "basic" purple gingham shirt one could even buy at Urban Outfitters, and some sexy shoes to boot! I loved the collection so much, I actually started looking for some inspiration for my upcoming lecture trip to Italy next month. I have been invited to speak to the Miami University of Ohio Summer Europe Program once again so I saw this look below from Miss Westwood as a "suggestion" for my "Traveling to Europe" ensemble...and well, I had to think again. It could be the Manpris or it might have been the I-think-all-that-carry-on might NOT be allowed on the plane factor...So, in other words, I had to "think again". A look which definitely might be in my "Summer In Florence" ensemble is:
Ahhhhhhhh, yes, leave it to Gucci. I think the above outfit WILL BE my inspiration for next month's European trip and lecture. For Spring/Summer 2011, Designer Frida Giannini designed a collection which was very 1960's Fiat Heir On His Way To Capri...or London.
The collection screamed Andrea and Pierre Casaraghi (Princess Caroline's we-do-nothing-bu-go-on-Holidays- sons). Slim very 60s suits, high-water cropped pants (a S/S 2011 Trend), rolled-up sleeves (great styling!) and an altogether Euro Trash-Gone Good look to it, which is what defines Gucci.
My Positano Beach Bag: Gucci Spring/Summer 2011 The sock-less loafers (sooooo GUCCI old-school!)
Oh it all SCREAMS "Me!". Now this is a collection where it is OK to say: "I would wear that!" Thank God the Euro is poor and the Dollar is strong because "Uncle Nick" might have to do some Gucci Damage in Italy!

Click Below for Moncler Gamme Bleu by Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2011:


Click Below for the Vivienne Westwood Menswear Spring 2011 Preview:


Click Below for the Gucci Menswear Spring 2011 Runway:

NY Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010: Runway Videos: Marc Jacobs, Rodarte

And We're off to NY Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010:

Marc Jacobs:
Earlier in the week, Marc Jacobs vowed to not have any actresses or paparazzi-ridden celebs in his front row (like last season's Madonna and Lady Gaga love-fest) and instead decided to actually have important editors and buyers sitting front row and center since they are who really matter in the end. As the designer and his business partner, Robert Duffy tore brown paper to reveal the podium filled with his 56 models, "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" played as the models began their walk down the runway showing Marc Jacob's Fall/Winter 2010 looks. It was a collection of his "best of the best" from his almost 20 year career. Mostly neutrals, lots of grays, some mustard yellows, and "Winter" pastels. Loved the mitered striped wool coats and the 1930s-inspired slithery gowns. Lots of exaggerated fur collared coats and wraps and some cute socks-with-pumps styling...very Marc Jacobs.No high drama, theatrics or tricks (except for that big pouffy Marc Jacobs Prom Dress at the end--still fabulous though!) just great saleable clothes his women will D.I.E. for...

Check out the Runway Video Below: Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2010


Rodarte:Known for their tulle, wool knit/crochet, ethereal but with a Goth edge dresses, the Mulleavy sisters took its audience on another Rodarte fashion trip. This time, for Fall/Winter 2010, it was Texas and Mexican border towns such as Ciudad Juarez. Patchwork arts-and-crafty dresses but with a defined "Couture" like quality: there was a method to the subdued madness. Floral chiffons, burnout velvets and laces that looked as if they were 100 years old--I can't even imagine the 150 pattern pieces on those dresses--the thought of these dresses going through Production can give any Production patternmaker a big headache! But somehow they do it, and do it beautifully. When I visit stores that carry Rodarte, such as Barney's and see their dresses, they are almost museum-like quality--and with a museum-like $14,500 price tag to boot! My favorites were at the end, those ivory "Virgin" gowns with asymmetrical side cowls with mini pouffy sleeves were a dream. Couture Communion Dresses anyone?

Rodarte Fall/Winter 2010 Runway Video, Part 1:


Rodarte Fall/Winter 2010 Runway Video, Part 2: